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Voyage 2007-2008: Chapter 4

The Panama Canal with SV Moony

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23 Mar 2008, Transiting the Panama Canal: Heading for Gatun Locks, 09 15.446 N/ 079 54.032 W

We are ready! It is time to say goodbye to the Panama Yacht Club and head for the anchorage at the 'flats'. The marina was basic but comfortable and had the uncanny ability accommodate cruisers looking for a slip. The restaurant and bar were great as the booze was cheap and the food was good. However, the incinerator was close by so we often got black goop on the boat each morning.
Moony is ready decorated with her tires, fenders, and brave crew. Wolfgang and Bob worked the long 1" lines so that they would not bind during the line handling. Now we know why Wolfgang carries those two big spools of rope around. The trip to the 'flats' took about 10 minutes but we were worried. The day before Wolfgang, Bob, and Ann took the dinghy to the 'flats' and had to avoid a sunken sailboat. Today there was no sign of the boat and we did not remember its location. No bumps. That is a good thing.
We had to anchor to wait for the adviser and also to wait for our last linesman, Ike. He was the skipper of a British boat (sorry, but I forgot the name) and volunteered to help us transit the Canal. He arrived about 5 minutes after we dropped the hook. We had met Ike a couple of times at the restaurant and he seemed like a nice guy. He would go through the Canal in a couple of weeks so this transit would be good practice.
Here comes the Adviser! The pilot boat is more accustomed to transfer pilots on large vessels so we were a bit concerned that they might bump into us. No worries. The boats didn't even touch. Not bad. Denise and Ann were down below cooking for Moony's large crew which had now grown to 6. Quite a few for a 37' sailing vessel.
We were lucky. Our Adviser, Orlando, was experienced with small vessels and commanded respect from his peers. Our transit through the Gatun locks was scheduled for 1900, then 2000, then 1940. Finally we were directed to head for the first chamber. A small freighter, a 70' ketch, and Moony rafted with a 40' Hunter named Compass Rose. 'Our' freighter was having problems and requested a second tug so we had to heave to . The freighter behind us was not happy and was getting closer and closer. He finally blasted the danger signal at us. It appeared we were going to be the 'meat' in a ship sandwich.. Orlando became annoyed and directed the other freighter to stop headway and wiat his turn. It worked.
Sadly, we have no pictures of the locking as it was very dark while we transited the three chambers. A little 'oops' by Bob was quickly corrected by more manpower on the line. The 70' ketch was also struggling. An of course, it started to rain a lot. After the first 'oops', everything went like clockwork. We left the Gatun locks around 2130 and headed for the mooring balls for small vessels. When we arrived, we found the mooring to be 8' in diameter. We were directed to tie the springs to the mooring and tie the bows and sterns of the boats together. Actually worked pretty well.

24 Mar 2008, Transiting Panama Canal: Towards Culebra Cut, 09 06.547 N/ 079 41.564 W

The howling monkeys kept Ann awake in the early morning hours as she was sleeping in the cockpit. Both crews were up at 0630 in preparation for the new advisers. At 0730, the pilot boat arrives and we receive our new Adviser, Dalton. Bob hopped on the mooring buoy and released our lines and off we went towards the Banana Channel. This well marked channel is for smaller boats so we did not have to deal with the freighters. However, that only lasted about an hour until we entered the main shipping lanes at Punta Bohio
The guys were in the cockpit strenuously navigating while Denise and Ann were taking it easy cooking breakfast and lunch. There actually are penalties for not properly feeding the Adviser. Really! If the Adviser does not like his food, he can have it catered to the boat at the boat owners expense. Really! We did not have to worry as Ann and Denise made great meals for the advisers and the crew! Not bad.
As we passed the town of Gamboa, we entered Culebra (on the charts called Gallard) Cut. Dalton told us that this was the most difficult part of the canal construction as it had to breach the Continental Divide. ACP controls the flow of traffic through this area as two Paramax ships can not pass each other in several places on the cut. We saw many signs of construction as they were widening the Canal throughout the Cut.
Ann actually got to drive Moony while the rest of us put up the sun shade. Wolfgang does not easily hand over the helm so Ann was happy. I am pleased to report that she didn't hit anything and was at the helm for nearly a half an hour. Bob did not have the honor. Wolfgang knows about Bob's 'Crazy Ivans'.

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